A Journey Through Irish Whiskey – Lessons and Inspirations for Kamui Whisky K.K.
Guest post: Guillaume's winter offseason Irish distilleries tour.
We converge back on Rishiri1.
It’s time to restart the distillery after the winter break.
Rebooting operations takes time: pipes need reattaching, equipment must be fired up, whisky-waste-loving microbes need reintroduction - the journey to bring the distillery back to life is an adventure in itself.
Even getting from the ferry, or the airport, is a journey - our trucks were scattered in different places around the island. We’ve had to trek through snow, lots of shoveling, and then the nervous moment of truth whether or not the battery still works and the engine will turnover.
During the 3 month off-season, our team dispersed to corners of the globe, enjoying a well-deserved break with minimal duties, yet full salaries. One perk I've championed for years, which no-one seemed interested to take me up on, is the opportunity for team members to visit, or intern at, distilleries worldwide or take courses to broaden their horizons. Fully paid. The isolation of Rishiri can be both a blessing and a curse; after nine months on island, new ideas are essential. For years, my offer fell on deaf ears—until Guillaume.
Guillaume, who now joins us full-time after starting on a working holiday visa last fall, took a journey to Ireland to explore its distilleries. Here's his report from the field:
A Journey Through Irish Whiskey – Lessons and Inspirations for Kamui Whisky K.K.
By Guillaume Peyssard
This winter, while our distillery was buried under a thick blanket of snow, our master distiller resting in Chile, and our director busy preparing for a new year of production, I decided to embark on a journey to Ireland. My goal? To study whiskey2 of course, but also to gather inspiration to enhance our customer experience in Rishiri.
But why Ireland, not Scotland? To justify my choice, let’s take a quick look back at the XIXe3. In the mid-1800s, Irish Whiskey represented 60% of worldwide sales, much more important than Scottish Whisky4. Irish whiskey was known for being bold, innovative, and more approachable in terms of flavor.
But from the late 19th century onward, several factors led to its decline, notably the rise of Scotch whisky, the introduction of column distillation (which benefited Scotch blends), and later, the crises of the 20th century (Irish independence, Prohibition, the World Wars).
By the mid-20th century, only four distilleries remained active in Ireland.
In 1966, the remaining three distilleries (Jameson, Powers and Cork Distilleries Company) banded together in Midleton to try and preserve Irish whiskey-making traditions. Since then, Irish whiskey has slowly made a comeback. Between 2010 and 2020, over 30 new distilleries opened, some nestled in the Irish countryside, others right in the heart of Dublin.
And so, why Ireland instead of Scotland? For a young distillery like ours, what better place to draw inspiration than a country teeming with fresh, modern distilleries?
For this adventure, I wasn’t traveling alone—my father decided to join me. He figured that touring Irish distilleries was a much better option than accompanying my mother on a visit to her family in northern France5.
After a low-cost flight from Paris, we landed in Dublin and headed straight for The Liberties—a historic district with deep whiskey-making roots. In the past, The Liberties was located outside Dublin’s city walls, meaning it was beyond the reach of taxes and regulations. This made it a hub for whiskey production, at least until the great industry collapse. Today, it’s home to Teeling Distillery, Roe & Co, and The Liberties Distillery—our first three stops.
Teeling Distillery – Modern, Urban, and Breaking the Rules
Teeling is a young distillery (founded in 2015) that has built its brand around being modern, urban, and rebellious—a stark contrast to the traditional image of whiskey. That’s exactly why I wanted to visit: to see how they reinvented the visitor experience and find ideas we could bring to Rishiri.
As soon as we arrived, we were greeted by a young, slightly punk-looking staff in an elegant, spacious visitor center—beautifully designed, featuring multiple bars, and packed with branded merchandise for tourists to buy.
My first reaction? Jealousy. Those who have visited Kamui Whisky K.K. know that our distillery is much more modest. But I quickly realized that, for a distillery in central Dublin, investing heavily in the visitor experience makes sense. Tourism must be a significant source of revenue for them.
We joined a guided tour, and while most visitors asked general whiskey-related questions, I had something much more pressing on my mind: "What cleaning products do you use to keep your pot stills so shiny?!"6 In Rishiri, I personally spend 30 minutes a day polishing our stills, and they have never been this spotless!
What stood out to me most during the visit was the storytelling. Every detail—every room, every explanation—was infused with history and anecdotes. They told the story of Irish whiskey, the traditions, the rise and fall of The Liberties, before positioning Teeling as the modern-day heir to this legacy.
Of course, this approach wouldn’t work for Kamui Whisky K.K.. Unlike Teeling, we are not a modern heir to Japanese whisky7—because Japanese whisky itself is still relatively young.
Another interesting detail at Teeling was that each of their pot stills had its own name—a woman's name, to be exact. Not only did I find this amusing and charming, but it also struck me as a great idea to facilitate clearer communication within our own distillery. I’ll definitely suggest naming our two pot stills back at Kamui.
And what about the whiskey? We were served a trinity of unique and interesting expressions, perfectly aligned with Teeling’s “new generation” image:
A single malt with bold fruity notes, characteristic of Ireland’s triple distillation process.
A single grain whiskey that was incredibly smooth.
A blend finished in rum casks, which introduced delightful tropical aromas.
It’s clear that Teeling aims to appeal to a younger and broader audience, including women, by crafting whiskeys with softer, sweeter profiles. My father, who had toured many Scottish distilleries and held a more traditional view of whiskey, and I, who produce double-distilled single malt in Rishiri, were still somewhat skeptical.
That said, I have to admit—the rum cask finish was delicious. I’ll definitely be proposing this idea when I return.
Whiskey, Cocktails, and Blending at Roe & Co and The Liberties
At The Liberties Distillery, the experience was similar, but with an additional treat: a cinnamon-infused whiskey cocktail, for which I made sure to take the recipe.
At Roe & Co, we opted for something different—The Blending Experience, where guests mix their own blend of single malt and single grain whiskey in whatever proportions they prefer. It was a fun and fascinating activity, but what struck me the most was the host’s speech.
He described blending as the ultimate step in crafting great whiskey—as if combining two quality whiskeys could unlock even greater complexity.
This was completely at odds with what I had learned at Kamui Whisky K.K.. At Kamui, our goal is to create a whisky that tells the story of Rishiri—its volcanic-filtered water, its relentless winds, and the crashing waves of the Sea of Japan. Blending our whisky with another would erase its identity as a true “Rishiri Whisky.”
This journey was already proving to be an eye-opener, exposing me to completely different philosophies of whiskey-making.
Pearse Lyons Distillery – Whisky Within Sacred Walls
It was already 5 pm when we stepped out of Roe & Co. Knowing Pearse Lyons Distillery was just around the corner, we decided to give it a shot and see if we could sneak in a quick visit before closing time. Founded in 2017, Pearse Lyons Distillery seemed much quieter and less crowded than the previous three distilleries. In fact, we found ourselves completely alone. Luckily, one of the employees was kind enough to offer us a quick, impromptu tour.
Approaching the distillery, I was struck by its unique and somewhat eerie setting—a beautifully restored 18th-century church surrounded by an old graveyard. The atmosphere outside was quite somber, especially in the fading light of late afternoon. But as soon as we stepped inside, we discovered something truly breathtaking. The walls, roof beams, and even the old stained glass windows had been meticulously restored. These stained glass windows, intriguingly, now depicted images of barley stalks and copper pot stills, blending the sacred and the secular in an unexpected yet harmonious way.
Our guide shared the fascinating story of the distillery's founder, Dr. Pearse Lyons, an Irish-American entrepreneur who made his fortune in animal nutrition and craft brewing. After discovering that many of his ancestors were buried in the cemetery surrounding this abandoned church, he felt compelled to preserve his family’s heritage. So he bought the dilapidated church and invested an astonishing 23 million euros to transform it into a state-of-the-art whiskey distillery. Because the building was listed as a heritage site, all renovations had to be carried out using original materials and traditional techniques, which explained part of the substantial cost.
23 million euros! That figure left me stunned. I have no idea how much Kamui Whisky K.K. initially invested8, but I'm sure it’s mere pocket change compared to that astronomical sum.
Inside the church-turned-distillery, we found a setup quite similar to our own distillery on Rishiri Island—compact and thoughtfully designed to fit neatly within the constraints of the historic structure. Due to space limitations, they had room for only two pot stills: a wash still and a distinctive spirit still equipped with an additional "reflux ball" or boil ball in its neck. This design, our guide explained, promotes greater reflux, resulting in a spirit that retains the signature smooth, fruity character of triple-distilled Irish whiskey—but achieved in only two distillations.
To conclude our visit, we sampled their award-winning new make spirit, fresh off the still, which had recently received recognition at the World Whiskies Awards9. Bright, clean, and full of character, it left me impressed and gave me plenty to think about for our own future releases at Kamui.
A Change of Scenery – Finding Inspiration in Rural Ireland
The Dublin distilleries were fascinating, but their identity was too different from ours. Their focus was on being modern, urban, and accessible, while Kamui Whisky K.K. is about craftsmanship, exclusivity, and a deep connection to nature.
So, we decided to head south in search of younger but more traditional distilleries.
Our first stop, Tipperary Distillery, was hidden deep within the Irish countryside. To reach it, we had to navigate a winding, narrow country road where our rental car barely fit. We were quite anxious, fearing we might scratch our rented vehicle—a nice upgrade from Sixt - but after all that trouble, we arrived only to find out the distillery doesn’t actually welcome visitors! Slightly disappointed but undeterred, we decided to press on. Our whiskey quest far from over.
Blackwater Distillery – Meeting John and His Team (Dogs Included)
Our spirits lifted immediately at the thought of our next stop: Blackwater Distillery. We were especially excited as we were scheduled to meet John, Blackwater’s master distiller, a friend of Casey’s. The distillery is located in a quaint village in the heart of Ireland. It occupies a large, rustic building, with fermentation tanks and pot stills on the ground floor and a charming tasting room and shop upstairs for occasional visitors.
This cozy upstairs space was where we met John, his friendly staff, and their two adorable dogs—officially introduced to us as Blackwater’s master distiller and master brewer! One might question the wisdom of having pets in a food production facility. But there’s actually a long-standing tradition of having animals in distilleries, typically cats, who were instrumental in keeping rodents away from precious barley grains. This got me thinking—perhaps Kamui Whisky K.K. should carry on this tradition and adopt a dog or a cat, maybe even a husky. It could welcome guests in summer, help pull barrels on sleds in winter, and guard against any unwanted visitors. On second thought, Rishiri’s harsh climate already keeps rodents away. Plus, I doubt the local Health Center would approve.
John showed us around his distillery. He operates with a traditional wash still and spirit still setup, quite similar to ours, although slightly smaller. Eagerly, John offered us a taste of three of his whiskeys, all crafted from old long lost Irish recipes:
The first whiskey was recreated from an old oat-rich recipe, offering comforting flavors of creamy oatmeal, raisins, and grapefruit zest — which would be perfect for warming up cold Rishiri mornings.
The second was a bold, turf-smoked single malt, intensely peaty and smoky, with notes of dark chocolate and damp earth that left an unforgettable impression.
The last whiskey, an audacious blend of all permitted grains, surprised me with its refined complexity—fresh cereals, gentle spices, and subtle orchard fruit notes.
After being accustomed to standard Dublin whiskeys, my father and I were absolutely amazed. Here were three bold, ancient recipes, revived by John’s skillful hands, each offering a refined complexity we still fondly remember.
Savoring these incredible creations, we chatted about Irish, Scotch, and Japanese whisk(e)y, about Japan and our own Rishiri Island. John confessed he was dying to visit us at Kamui Whisky K.K.. Impressively, he even spoke a little Japanese—a real surprise for someone living in rural Ireland. We sincerely hope he'll visit us soon. I truly hope that day our own whisky here from Rishiri will impress him as much as his whiskey impressed us.
Our next stop was to be Waterford Distillery. However, John informed us it had recently closed. Although many new distilleries have opened in Ireland recently, several have also quietly shut their doors. Maybe the industry isn’t flourishing as brightly as it appears. Is it too much competition? Not enough consumers? Or perhaps a shortage of experienced master distillers? We did learn that Pearse Lyons Distillery, for example, had slowed operations significantly after losing one of their two master distillers.
This made me reflect on Japan’s booming whiskey industry, especially in Hokkaido, where many new distilleries have recently appeared. I wonder if we’ll see a similar shakeout in the next five years10. Distilleries producing “common” whisky, lacking distinct identity, might not survive.
Midleton Distillery – Ireland’s Whiskey Heartland
In the end, we decided to head directly to Midleton, the true birthplace of modern Irish whiskey. This is where, in 1975, the venerable distilleries of Jameson, Powers, and the Cork Distilleries Company combined their efforts, moving all production under one roof to survive the great crash and preserve Ireland’s whiskey heritage.
Midleton offered an entirely different experience. The original distillery site is now an incredible museum filled with whiskey history and fascinating artifacts. There, we saw the old water wheel once used for milling, expansive malt kilns, and huge warehouses where some barrels are as old as I am. Unlike the Dublin distilleries, our guide was himself a distiller, and his explanations were far more technical, historical, and filled with insights. A great inspiration to enhance our own tours back in Rishiri.
The tasting, unfortunately, was quite disappointing—young, triple-distilled blends from mass-market brands. Harsh in the mouth and bland on the finish—the kind of whiskey you only buy once. Nevertheless, the tour itself was fantastic. The shop was also impressive, full of elegant sweaters from brand collaborations, exquisite gift boxes, and classy merchandise. I snapped many photos, hoping to bring some new product ideas to Kamui Whisky K.K.’s shop.
Cork & Irish Pub Experience
That evening, we stayed in a lovely hotel in the heart of Cork, Ireland’s historic southern port city. Of course, our Irish adventure wouldn't be complete without tasting the famous Irish stew in an old, traditional Irish pub. Luckily, we found one right below our hotel. Entering, I asked the server if they served “Irish stew.” He looked puzzled. “You mean, a shew?” he replied. Of course, for us it’s Irish stew, but for locals, it’s just a stew, or rather "shew" with the south Irish accent. We ordered two “shews” and two pints of Guinness.
To our surprise, the server returned with two stews and four pints of Guinness. Noticing our confusion, he explained that the stew came with a pint included—meaning we each accidentally ordered an extra one. Let's just say, I left with fuller stomachs than anticipated—especially given my usual lighter diet back on Rishiri.
Powerscourt Distillery – Ending on a High Note
The next day, on our way back to Dublin, we stopped by Powerscourt Distillery. Sadly, Glendalough Distillery, which I greatly admire, wasn’t open for tours. But Powerscourt was. The distillery sits on the magnificent Powerscourt Estate, in County Wicklow, complete with a 5 stars hotel, golf course, sumptuous gardens and stables. Honestly, it felt more like the distillery was built as an additional amenity for estate guests than as a serious whiskey operation. Indeed, when we entered, we found an elegant bar and gleaming pot stills—entirely inactive. The server explained later that winter slows things down significantly due to fewer visitors, much like our own situation in Rishiri. But they do produce Whisky here.
Determined to end our whiskey pilgrimage on a high note, we decided to sample Powerscourt’s finest: a 15-year-old single grain finished in a French wine barrel, and a 21-year-old single malt finished in a sherry cask. What a delight! For my father and me, this was truly the climax of our whiskey journey.
As we savored these exceptional spirits while admiring the picturesque estate, we pondered: “Why do we love this whiskey? What makes a good whiskey? A great whiskey?”
Is it innovation—breaking rules to create bold new flavors, like Teeling’s rum cask finish? Or accessibility—bringing young and old, men and women together, like The Liberties’ fruity blends? Is it authenticity—telling the story of the land, its grains, and waters, like Blackwater’s heavily peated single malt? Or is it time—capturing the long history of a cask’s aging, the passing seasons, winds, rains, and snow, like this 21 years old Single Malt.
Whiskey’s production rules are strict yet surprisingly broad, allowing many interpretations of greatness. But for me, the answer was already clear: A great whiskey is one I long to share with my father. Whether for its flavor or its story, a great whiskey is one we long to share, talk about and brag about with close friends and family.
A great whiskey is one I long to share with my father.
Conclusion – Bringing Inspiration Back Home
On the flight home, my mind was buzzing with inspiration. I began jotting down my report right away, eager not to lose a single idea—there were so many ways we could enhance our whisky production and our customer experience at Kamui Whisky K.K.. Yet, among all my reflections, one key insight stood out most clearly: each distillery we visited in Ireland has its own very distinct, carefully crafted identity, vividly reflected in their tours, visitor centers, decor, and even the whisky itself.
Kamui Whisky K.K., too, has a truly unique and powerful identity. My task now is clear— to explore and envision how we can better express and communicate this unique identity to our valued visitors.
fin
At least try to. Always a journey to get to Rishiri, and flights were missed.
Editor’s dilemma: leave the “e” or remove it, as, for us, it is always “whisky”. Irish whiskey is always spelled with an “e”, so left it.
Editor’s note: is the French way of writing “19th century”.
No “e” in Scotch whisky. 😉
Editor’s note: 🤣
Answer: Well, their secret is that they didn't produce in February. Taxes start in March and they already distilled too much, so they just had a big cleaning and polish.
Editor’s note: actually we kind of are, there are parallels in our story, and personal relationships, to Taketsuru-san who founded Nikka, and is considered the “founder” of Japanese Whisky.
Editor’s note: less than 10% of this.
As did we! 🎊🥂
Editor’s note: yes, we will.
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